THE MINISTRY OF MEMORIES
The Last Guardians of Yoruba Door Carving
- ILLUSTRATIONS: OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU / THE REPUBLIC.
THE MINISTRY OF MEMORIES
The Last Guardians of Yoruba Door Carving
- ILLUSTRATIONS: OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU / THE REPUBLIC.
Kasali Akangbe is resting on his wooden, handcrafted chair. His hands are clutched on his stomach as he stares into the wide expanse of space before his house in Sasa, a bustling neighbourhood in the city of Osogbo, the capital of Osun State. Akangbe’s home—unlike the other large houses in the area—is appropriately flanked by trees.
Trees are his beloved. The renowned 83-year-old woodcarver has just returned from his workshop, which sits just beside his home. In the workspace, logs of wood lie scattered, some skinned, some rotten. At a side is an uncompleted carved pole next to a giant carved mural of an unidentified traditional god holding two ase—small, wand-like staffs. The head of the mural utilises Akangbe’s signature style: elongated, lean faces with distinctive eyes. A style that made him one of the most celebrated artists of his generation.
Akangbe’s portfolio includes handcrafting most of the sculptures and poles in the Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove, the ancestral and spiritual forest through which the Osun River flows. In the Yoruba tradition, it is believed that the Osun River is home to Yemoja, the river goddess. In 2015, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization declared the grove a World Heritage Site. One of Akangbe’s most cherished works is the very door that leads to Yemoja’s shrine, where worshipers go to seek whatever they desire—from health and wealth to children and security. As well as Yemoja, the design on the door contains a craft of Arugba—a virgin maiden who carries the calabash during the Osun Osogbo festival—and other smaller gods. It took Akangbe about three months to complete the door, which included the final process of invoking it with ‘spiritual powers’ through incantations. ‘When carving, the Ifa [Yoruba divination system] will be consulted to understand the process of how to wield the tree with power,’ Akangbe says. ‘We use “Ewe Igbo” to…invite the spirit into it. If anyone [unwanted] knocks, a headache will kill the person. That is the spiritual power.’
For Yorubas, Akangbe adds, these specially carved doors were not simply considered as ordinary household items because, ‘they were not made by ordinary people,’ but by carvers who possessed a special mastery of both the physical and spiritual requirements.
Growing up, Akangbe’s family worshipped Ogun, the Yoruba god of iron, commonly worshipped by warriors. One of the doors carved by his family is called ‘Abogunde’, which is specifically carved for warriors and features depictions of weapons etched on it. Abogunde doors are believed to be imbued with powers that shielded warriors by notifying them that danger was coming. A Yoruba saying succinctly captures this sentiment: ‘Ilé tí kò ní ìlẹ̀kùn ni asínwín ń wọ̀,’ which means: Buildings without doors are open to miscreants and mad people.
Before chisels, gouges and knives, Akangbe says carvers used axes and filers to carve objects. However, doors were more difficult to carve, he says, because they required wide trees, which made them expensive; afforded only by kings and some warriors. An ordinary person with a door in his house was not ordinary.
These intricately carved doors first appeared in shrines because they were seen to hold more significance than private homes. As time progressed, patterns, motifs, structures and designs were carved into the wood to bring out distinct and definite aesthetics. The design and size of a door, particularly in palaces or shrines, indicated the wealth, rank, or importance of the building’s occupants. Larger and more elaborate doors were used by royalty and high-ranking chiefs.
THE BIG HOUSE’S DOOR IN IFE
Inside the Ooni’s palace in Ile-Ife, the ancient city in Osun State, which is considered the origin of Yoruba people, is the ‘Ìlẹ̀kùn Ilé Ńlá’ (The Big House’s Door). Carved in 1842, it is one of the oldest cultural materials in Yorubaland. According to Chief Kehinde Awoyefa, one of the Ooni’s emissaries and a custodian of the Ìlẹ̀kùn Ilé Ńlá’, the door stands as a ‘witness bearer to the Yoruba system before civilization.’
The carvings on the door feature scenes from traditional Yoruba stories and traditions, from marriage customs to festival celebrations, depictions of the slave trade and the king’s affluence. The first set of carvings shows two men grappling as they stare into each other’s angry faces. In historical Yoruba society, as crafted on the door, a man could not simply marry a woman unless the king was informed. If two men were interested in her, they would have to fight it out. If nobody won the fight, they’d be asked to pound yam; whoever made the fluffiest pounded yam would be assumed ready to marry, which is why images of men pounding yam are also carved on the door.
The images on the door also depict warnings for how to avoid committing what were considered cultural abominations. For example, there is a carving of a man mounting palm trees and carvings of men riding horses. These carvings depict that it is prohibited for any indigene of Ife to climb a palm tree or for any king in Yorubaland to ride a horse. Instead, the king should be carried in chariots.
Beyond cultural preservation and bearing witness to Yoruba tradition, the primary essence of the ‘Ìlẹ̀kùn Ilé Ńlá’ is to witness the different worlds it bridges. The front side of the door opens into a space for relaxation, but the rear side opens to a shrine. According to Chief Awoyefa, the people wanted to separate the shrine from other places because they believed some unseen spiritual beings occupied the shrine when they were not around it. ‘Whenever they wanted to open and enter through a door, they knocked thrice to alert the unseen spirits,’ Awoyefa says. ‘There are stories of people who died because they did not knock before entering.’ Explaining its importance, Awoyefa notes that the big house’s door remains shut except on two occasions: when a new king is installed and when a king dies.
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THE ESSENCE OF CARVING
At the corner beside the entrance of his workshop, Gabriel Afolayan is hunched on a wooden chair with his legs crossed. His hands are busy, one holding a piece of wood and the other a knife. Afolayan holds the wood tightly to his lap, the knife sharpening its edges, wood chips dropping on his black trousers. He is carving a small goddess with a long, pointed head, its hands clamped to its sides, its face stern.
Afolayan has been carving since 1973. In Ife, his shop is close to the Ooni’s palace and the National Museum. There are different wooden head sculptures and motifs hanging above him. On every corner are carvings of traditional drummers beating their drums. Everything in his shop, including a cupboard, a box, some stools and plates, is handcrafted from wood. I try to get him to pick a favourite, but he declines. ‘Every carving must be shaped and carved to perfection because it is like culture and tradition.’
When Afolayan finished primary school, his father told him he could not afford to continue paying his school fees. But Afolayan had already developed a fascination with carving having watched his brother, Lawrence Alaayi, work. He was four years old when he started learning from Lawrence. When Afolayan eventually started selling his work, he was confident he’d carve his way into fortune. Even when Christian missionaries seeped into Ife, and animism was condemned, his services were still sought. He carved doors for Catholic, Anglican and Saint Mathew Churches.
For him, carving is not attached to belief. It is just a way to express the artistic creativity of the Yoruba people. There are carved doors that do not have designs or patterns on them. He believes whatever you carve on the wood, even as a novice and layman, is an expression of creativity. He tells me:
It used to be a competition among the churches then. Everyone wanted to have carved doors. But if you go to churches now, only a few of them use carved doors. Even those that use it, ‘God’, ‘Jesus’ is carved on it. They now use modern doors. It’s affected us so much. But the major problem is the absence of trees. There are no strong trees to carve anymore.
Carvers rely on these strong trees—teak, palm tree, mahogany, Iroko, Afaara, Agbonyin and Ayunre Banabana—because they are strong and water resistant. But Nigeria is losing most of its trees to urbanisation, wood burning, and environmental disasters such as oil spills. Reports show that an annual deforestation rate of about 3.5 per cent means Nigeria has lost around 14,587 hectares as of 2020. Today, Nigeria has less than four per cent of its primary forest left. According to a report by the United Nations Collaborative Programme on Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and Forest Degradation in Developing Countries, forest cover in Nigeria has been declining at a rate ranging from 3.5 per cent to 3.7 per cent annually from 2000 to 2010. This means that between 350,000 and 400,000 hectares of forest land are lost each year. Nigeria stands to lose all of its forest areas by the year 2052 if the annual deforestation rate of 3.5 per cent continues.
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THE GRADUAL HISTORICAL TRANSFORMATION OF CARVED DOORS
While the lack of trees led to the scarcity of door carvers and the gradual erosion of carved doors in the Yoruba culture, colonialism as well as the influences of Brazil and Portugal on Nigeria’s architecture furthered the gradual transformation. As Bob Bennett notes in the 1979 issue of New Culture Studio, ‘the three most significant influences on Nigerian architecture are: the expansion of Islam in Northern Nigeria, the colonial domination by Great Britain, and the return of the Brazilian slaves. These events significantly influenced indigenous architecture.’ However, he continues, ‘possibly the most significant development which has influenced Nigerian architecture is the advent of colonialism. Colonialism brought with it not only new people, but new lifestyles, living habits, building materials, and construction techniques. The colonial influence is, in fact, the foundation of Nigerian architecture today.’
Colonialism laid the groundwork for the architectural transformations introduced by Afro-Brazilian returnees. When formerly enslaved people returned to Nigeria in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, they brought with them a new style of building. This Afro-Brazilian era replaced the older Yoruba methods, which typically involved mud houses, with small windows and palm leaf roofs. In contrast, the Afro-Brazilian style featured thatched roofing, cement and detailed patterns on door and window frames.
Before the Afro-Brazilian era, colonialism had already begun to shift Nigeria’s architectural landscape by introducing new construction materials and techniques. As Ayodeji Ogunnaike, a scholar of African and Afro-diasporic religious traditions notes in his 2022 essay, ‘The Transcontinental Genealogy of the Afro-Brazilian Mosque’, African architecture can be divided into two categories: ‘traditional architecture, which existed before contact with Europeans, and modern architecture, which was introduced by colonial European powers.’
This transformation, driven by both colonial and Afro-Brazilian influences, marked the beginning of a significant departure from traditional Yoruba architectural practices, including from the art of door carving.
Moreover, as Bennett observes, the expansion of Islam in Nigeria played a crucial role in the gradual erasure of traditional art forms like carved doors. Islamic teachings, which forbid representations of living beings—humans and animals—further accelerated this decline. Both Islam and Christianity, which gained influence through colonialism, were largely intolerant of animism, often viewing indigenous spiritual practices and their associated art forms as idolatrous. This shift in religious attitudes led to the marginalization of sculpture and other artistic expressions tied to Yoruba cosmology, including the detailed carvings on doors.
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THE EXTINCTION OF DOORS CARVERS
These influences also transformed the carving profession itself. Traditional carvers, facing diminishing demand for their work, evolved into carpenters. Rather than just creating door carvings imbued with symbolic meaning, they began producing furniture like bed frames, chairs and mirror frames. This shift led to a new form of expression, focusing on geometric patterns and ornamentation, which aligned more closely with the modern, colonial and Afro-Brazilian architectural styles.
Today, there are only a few traditional carvers left. The surviving artisans are faced with multifaceted challenges because carvers who once adorned Yoruba doors with intricate spiritual and cultural designs are now left grappling with a world that sees little value in their art. This erosion of their craft stems not only from external influences like the arrival of colonialism but also from the rapid adoption of steel and glass in modern construction, rendering carved wooden doors an archaic practice.
The suppression of spiritual and cultural practices by Islam and Christianity has had profound economic consequences for woodcarvers, forcing many to abandon their craft or to adapt to carpentry and furniture making, where functional and decorative geometric patterns replaced spiritual significance.
However, despite these challenges, a few artisans like Afolayan who also has an apprentice and Akangbe whose children sometimes carve, persist, dedicated to preserving the legacy of their craft. But their audience is shrinking, and their market is limited to niche cultural projects and the preservation of heritage sites like the Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove. These efforts, while admirable, are insufficient to revive the broader demand for carved wooden doors in contemporary architecture. Without significant efforts to promote and preserve this art form, woodcarving may soon become a lost tradition.
Akangbe is particularly hurt because most of his early works are out of reach for him. They have all been sold in Europe and placed in museums. ‘Oyinbo bought our art and they are no longer accessible to us,’ he says. ‘They will tell you, you can’t touch it, you can only view it from the glass. After buying it, they even auction it for sale.’ His face deepens. He leans back in the chair, opens his palms and drops them on his lap. He moves to speak but decides against it. He stares on, and on, and on at his beloved trees⎈
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