Portraits of Nigerian Hair

Nigerian Hair
THE MINISTRY OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS

Portraits of Nigerian Hair

Obidike Arinze Nnanyelu, who created the Visual History of Nigerian Hair illustration series, discusses what it means as an artist to document hair-making in Nigeria and unpack its cultural significance.
Nigerian Hair
THE MINISTRY OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS

Portraits of Nigerian Hair

Obidike Arinze Nnanyelu, who created the Visual History of Nigerian Hair illustration series, discusses what it means as an artist to document hair-making in Nigeria and unpack its cultural significance.

Welcome to Chi Best Salon’ is an inscription that the average Nigerian will recognize is outside a hair salon. Salons are always welcoming, one of the few sanctuaries where people allow their hairs to be touched. After all, in many cultures, hairs and heads are viewed with a sense of spirituality. The Yoruba word, Orí, means the head and, figuratively, a personal god. 

Hairstyle in Nigeria is attached to identities and occasions. Simpler hairstyles are viewed as conservative while experimental flashy styles are perceived to be more liberal. The bigger the occasion, the grander the hairdo will likely be. 

For Reimagining Nigerian Heritage, illustrator, Obidike Arinze Nnanyelu, explored the visual culture of street hair salons, homing in on their signature hairstyle calendars. These calendars are usually hung in salons. Clients can choose any of the styles depicted or describe what they want based on these styles.  

In this interview, Nnanyelu takes us behind his approach to illustrations and the themes he sought to convey through the hairstyle illustration series.  

THE REPUBLIC

How would you describe your approach to illustrating? When you get a prompt, what’s the first thing you do? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

When given a prompt, the first thing I do after looking at it is to either sleep for a while or start sketching on the spot or take a walk while listening to jazz music. Creating time to sleep first is very important to me because as soon as I wake up, I start looking for ways to go about the illustrations given to me. For this series, my approach was simple: I just took it bit by bit. 

THE REPUBLIC

What was your initial concept when you got the design pitch, and how did your concept evolve? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

Frankly speaking, as soon as I heard I was working on hairstyles a whole lot of ideas came in at once because there are core memories one has growing up that revolve around hairstyles: from the hair salon to a busy side of a market where women gather to make their hairs. So, thinking of how to pull them out of my head so that everyone gets it was a bit challenging but I eventually figured out a way like I always do. 

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THE REPUBLIC

What ideas and visuals immediately stand out to you when you think of natural hair and how did this influence the designs for the illustrations? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

The ideas and visuals that stood out were, at first, a typical Nigerian male and female salon, the tools found and used in these places and as well the posters on the wall displaying various hairstyles. Living with my mom and sister had a big influence on the project because I could look at the type of hair products they use and the stories they tell about salons and draw inspiration from themI literally was sourcing for ideas everywhere down from the markets where hairstylists stay to personal salon shops in complexes and plazas.  

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THE REPUBLIC

What sparked your interest in exploring the cultural significance of natural hair in Nigeria? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

Seeing and getting to know more about photographer, J. D. Okhai Ojeikere’s works during the Alternative Heritage workshop in Ibadan left me curious because that was the first time I had seen hairstyles being displayed in such a beautiful way and as far back as then. You can see that the hairstyles in his works have so many meanings and unique names. His work helped me realize that hairs were used to convey important factors like age, marital status, occupation, and religious affiliations in one’s life. I could also see how hairs were integrated into the spiritual and ritual practices of many cultures in Nigeria as it was believed to hold magical powers and connect to the divine. 

THE REPUBLIC

Why do you think there is still a stigma surrounding natural hair in Nigeria and what historical factors contribute to it? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

The only logical explanation behind the stigma being faced by those who decide to rock their natural hair proudly is ignoranceHonestly, it’s not surprising to a large extent because you hardly see or hear positive histories about our hair and people decide to ride with a flawed mentality. It is a gradual process to get over and it gives me joy seeing more people in offices and workspaces creating a healthy environment where everyone can express themselves fully. So far, it’s positive.  

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THE REPUBLIC

What role do you believe heritage plays in how Nigerians view their hair today? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

It plays a huge roleEverything I have said today has one or two connections with heritage, our roots and that shows the importance of knowing our heritage as Nigerians and also why Nigerians must keep on passing the torch to generations to come. Our diverse cultures and heritage helped too because every ethnic group has its unique hairstyles and mind you, some of these hairstyles are over 100 years old but still are practised today.  

THE REPUBLIC

When viewers engage with this illustration spread, what’s one thing you want them to take away from it? 

OBIDIKE ARINZE NNANYELU

Appreciation would be the one thing I would like the viewers to take away as they engage with the illustration spread. We should really appreciate our hair more often and be more confident in whatever style we chose to wear. No one should feel insecure because they decide to go natural by choice or by financial situation. Instead, they should be confident and proud of their various hairstyles. Enjoy the illustrations and do your own research as well about hairstyles so you can see for yourself how far back we have always been known for our rich heritage and hairstyles, which is all the more reason to appreciate them today

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